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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.